Charmed in Candidasa

With her face tilted toward the azure waters of the Indian Ocean and the sacred lotus pond nestled between her temple and the sea, the goddess of fertility, Hariti, stands guard over the coastal village of Candidasa in Northeast Bali. For a thousand years, Balinese locals have paid homage to her rough-hewn image, praying for marital bliss, wealth and, of course, children.

That’s one legend. According to another, much older tale, Hariti is no goddess at all. She’s a demon, a cannibal, who fed her brood of beloved offspring by kidnapping, killing and serving up other women’s children. Prayer was futile. As a daeva, she remained unswayed by pleas for mercy.

The contradicting stories of Candidasa’s chief attraction (besides the sea) sums up the town itself. Serene Candidasa (pronounced “chandy dassa”), with its sacred location and beach pounded into extinction by the same sea that created Bali’s famous beaches, tells two tales. On one hand, there’s Candidasa, the ancient fishing village built on an aquamarine lagoon, as sleepy as a calm day at sea when the fish aren’t biting. On the other hand is Candidasa, the resort town, its streets dotted with 5-star hotels and restaurants, Internet cafes and nail salons.Although erosion has claimed most of the white sand for which Candidasa was once famous and the tourists are moving in to take its place, Candidasa remains one of the true gems of Bali.

I spent my first night in Candi at the Puri Bagus Resort, a rare moment of luxury during my seven months of travel through Southeast Asia. Each bungalow there is its own mini villa, one grand, well-appointed L-shaped room with separate sitting area and private veranda. I judge a place by its bathroom and Puri Bagus did not disappoint. The outdoor, cascading shower set in the same type of stone used in the 12th century to carve Hariti made me happy. For more conventional types, the bath also featured an indoor shower and tub. The best part of my stay, however, was falling asleep to the sound of the ocean right outside my huge picture window.My last four nights in Candi were spent in humble, spartan accommodations. No hot water, no furniture other than a bed and small dressing table. Despite this, the facility offered amenities galore: small private beach, outdoor, ocean-front, stone-tiled yoga room, wonderful community of yogis and meditators, and the ever-soothing sound of the sea to lull me to sleep.At the request of management, I can’t divulge the name of my second location. They’re choosy about who stays there and they’d prefer you find them yourself. If you can’t do that, the gods don’t want you there. And if the gods don’t want you there, well, neither does management.

Dusk at my Secret location in Candidasa

For my next extended stay in Bali, I will make Candidasa (at my secret location) my home base. A mere 15 kilometers from White Sand Beach, which is perhaps Bali’s most beautiful spot on the sea, my Candidasa digs will be the perfect place from which to venture out to other parts of the island. Ubud is about one hour away; the airport one and a half; Mt. Agung, Bali’s highest elevation and most sacred mount, 45 minutes.

I don’t mind the lack of beaches in Candidasa; in fact, I consider it a bonus. Less beach = fewer tourists. And the relative lack of tourists compared to the more popular towns of Seminyak, Sanur and Kuta boosts Candi’s charm.

Bali’s best beach: White Sand Beach