Forgive me for referencing the Elizabeth Gilbert memoir that sparked a mass exodus to Bali’s spiritual and cultural center, Ubud. “That damn book.” That’s how expats whose move to Ubud predates Gilbert’s finding love there put it, though Gilbert is by no means single-handedly responsible for Ubud’s transformation.
Just a few years ago, central Ubud laid claim to exactly one paved street. Today the entire town is navigable via motor vehicle. Ralph Lauren and Paul Smith boutiques squeeze between spas and local warungs. California cuisine, sushi, organic vegetables and supplement-packed smoothies are almost as plentiful as rice.
Rice, it turns out, is the chief victim of the westernization of Bali. As the expats move in and build their dream villas, they buy up the rice fields that are the backbone of Bali’s economy, to do so. Who could blame them? For less than $2,000 a month, you could live in utter opulence in Bali: 4-bedroom manse with swimming pool, daily housekeeping, a personal chef and driver. And, if you have children, you can send your kids to one of two world-class schools near Ubud: Pelangi and the groundbreaking Green School.
This dream life comes with consequences, however: You can’t eat a villa. And as the world’s food and water supply continues to dwindle, this could pose a problem down the road.
But, for now, Bali is amazing and the living is easy. Yes, immigration tries to make things difficult, but anyone willing to play by the wacky rules will have no problem. Bali is, after all, paradise.
