My second trip to India in less than a year kicked off with an auspicious start. Since this is a working trip I’m wisely opting for Ernest Hemingway’s hotel of choice in Delhi–Maidens Hotel–which strains my budget but makes me feel ready to tackle the journey ahead. I figure I can recoup the rupees elsewhere. The man who wrapped an orange scarf around my perfectly formed curls this morning before I was allowed to enter a Delhi Gurudwar (Sikh temple) had several suggestions. In Amritsar I can stay in a dorm at the Golden Temple, he said, for free.
But free things make me uncomfortable, which makes me over-tip, which defeats the purpose of free.
Continental flights from Newark, New Jersey to New Delhi, India always arrive at night. Last time here I figured, wise move on Continental’s part. Darkness is Delhi’s friend. But today I took in some sights that hold up well even in the light. The National Gallery of Modern Art, the Red Fort, the National Museum (which has statues dating back to the 8th century strewn about the grounds, outdoors, totally exposed to the elements).
My driver said I was the first American he’s met who doesn’t smoke, drink or eat animals. I told him I live in San Francisco where healthy living is mandatory. At the end of a very long day that included non-stop conversation which neither one of us understood much of, he presented me with gifts: a souvenir book of Delhi and a statue of my favorite god, Ganesha.
I’m delighted, but also uncomfortable. I’m pretty sure I’ll way overtip tomorrow when he drops me off at the airport for my flight to Bagdogra.
Last thing, I stayed in the Maidens one night last May and two of the waiters here told me they recognize me. I’ve decided to consider it a compliment.
