The Best of Ubud, Bali

Ubud, Bali, is where Marin County and Berkeley, California, meet Indonesia. Strolling through Ubud, you’ll pass organic cafes, raw food restaurants, yoga studios, boutiques, jewelry stores, spas, nail salons. Even Starbucks. The look, a town center that is busy, overcrowded and noisy, surrounded by beautiful scenery is very Berkeley. The people—Western, eco-friendly, spiritual hipsters and yoga princesses—pure Marin.

Becoming part of the Western expat invasion was a mixed blessing. When my friend Mary Ann arrived here from San Diego for a 2 week visit, she commented, “You always put yourself right in the middle of the action, don’t you?” Ubud seemed to her more Manhattan than shanti Bali. And while it’s true I will do it differently if I return, I stand by my experience here. This is the place where I’ve met some of my favorite people in the world: Tarra from the S.F. Bay Area, Kimberly from New York City, Heidi and William from Oslo, Nyoman Sudana, my landlord in Ubud.

The Bali outside Ubud is spectacular—beaches, rolling hills where peace lilies and orchids bloom wildly, rice fields, ancient temples, sacred mounts and rivers, tiny towns where the delicate splendor of Balinese culture can be witnessed in its purity.

While I recommend a shorter stay than I had in Ubud, I do consider Ubud a must-stay. Here, in my humble opinion, is the best the town has to offer:

On the walk to Sari Organics

Best Healthy/Organic Restaurant

Set amid the rice fields and Sari’s own organic gardens, Sari Organics, which is about a 20 minute walk from Jalan Raya, is the one restaurant you cannot skip. The food here, superbly prepared, is the freshest available in Ubud (possibly all of Bali). Bonus: the service is excellent.

Runner Up

I like this place. It’s a great hangout, offers decent wi-fi and excellent vegetarian fare. I would eat here every day if not for the fact that the even the “large” salads are miniscule.

Juice Ja, not just for juicers

Best Health Food Store

Bali Buddha is the best for one reason: it’s the only health food store. The service is abysmal; the staff could not be more apathetic and careless. But if you want organic lentils, tempeh, muesli, veggies and yummy-looking healthy treats (raw chocolate, homemade energy bars), gluten and sugar free pastries, this is the only place in town. Unfortunately.

Runner Up

Sari sells its own rice and a few skin care products.

Best Hair Salon

If you must get your hair cut or colored while in Ubud, Paris, who owns Milano, is your best bet. Several Westerners offer salon services on the sly. Immigration is cracking down on illegal businesses, so you’ll have to ask around to find the Western stylists.

Runner Up

From my own experience and what I’ve witnessed in one of the other Westerners who goes to her, Nelly tends to color hair too dark for Caucasian complexions, even when we’re tanned. Still, she’s who the Four Seasons calls when one of their guests needs a hair stylist.

Best Coffee

I don’t care how cliche this is: If you want your coffee to turn out exactly the way you want it, go to Starbucks.

Choki and Momma Missy

 

Runner Up

The coffee and food here are excellent. And Savannah Moon offers an amenity no other place can match: Choki the shih-tzu will snuggle or ignore you, depending on your preference.Best Yoga Class
Denise’s Power Yoga (Yoga Barn’s annex, above Kafe), Jalan Hanuman

This class is, simply, a blast. Denise is the real deal. One simple verbal cue—lift your arches—transformed my practice. Plus, she lets you try handstands and advanced postures regardless of your level. She’ll have you backbending, headstanding, balancing and laughing, while taking in snippets of yogic wisdom.Best Massage
Ida at Body & Soul, Jalan Raya
I had only one massage during my four months in Ubud, with Ida, but those who know far better than I do say she’s the best in town. Given the level of self-indulgence most of my interview subjects achieved, I believe them.Best Local Product
Skin De-Light
Skin De-Light is a moisturizer that combines the healing, anti-oxidant powers of olive oil with a flowery fragrance. It’s all natural, organic luxury for your skin.

Best Homestay
Sandat Bali, Jalan Sugriwa
Set back from the road, Sandat Bali offers reprieve from noisy street sounds. Noisy family sounds are retained. Sandat Bali keeps it real while offering a slight respite from the din that is Ubud.

Best Local Restaurant that is not owned by an Australian, Canadian or American
Igelanca, Jalan Raya
Yummy salads, fantastic nasi campur, great atmosphere, central location.

Best Restaurant for Ambiance
Bridges, Jalan Raya Campuhan
Owned by a French Canadian, this is casual fine dining set just above the river. Food, service, atmosphere—Fantastique!

The Staff of Good Karma

Best Place to Give Back
BARC/Good Karma (animal rescue, sanctuary and clinic), Jalan Raya Pengosekan
Dogs are considered pests by most Balinese, the lowest mammals on the totem pole. One woman, Linda Buller, founder of BARC and Good Karma, is singlehandedly transforming the fate of Bali dogs. The rescue rounds up strays, neuters, spays and vaccinates them and, when possible, either adopts them out or re-releases them to their own ‘hoods. This place will melt your heart.

Best Soulful Indulgence
Shivaloka, Jalan Hanuman
The malas sold here are simply divine. Expensive, but quite possibly worth it.

Best Flip-flops
Ubud Mart, Monkey Forest Road
Havaianas, the new line by Giselle Bunchen, about a dozen other options. If your Havaianas go missing after movie night at Yoga Barn, as mine did, Ubud Mart can hook you up with new ones.

Best Teas
Clear Cafe, Jalan Hanuman
The service here makes Bali Buddha seem sharp. 16 servers stand around giggling while you fetch your own flatware. Still King Caramel Tea is worth any suffering you go through to coerce the servers into bringing you one.

Best Day Spa
Tjampuhan Hotel, The Grotto
Luxury for less than $10. Jacuzzi, cold pool, beautiful outdoor swimming pool, sauna, steam room. Do not miss this.

Best Place for Good Reads
Pondok Pekak & Anak-Anak Library & Resource Center
This tiny library offered me every book I wanted and needed while in Ubud. I caught up on classics, indulged in chicklit, researched new destinations.

Best Shop for Handicrafts
Wayan’s Shop, Jalan Raya Campuhan
Magical painted wood sculptures of Buddha, Ganesha and other spiritual